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How to Grow Asparagus
comments (6) July 31st, 2008
KitchenGardener Magazine, archive
146 users recommend
The edible stems of asparagus rise directly from the ground. Spears that are about 8 in. tall are ready to harvest.
Photo: Susan Kahn
Modest care pays dividends
When you’ve established your asparagus bed, the hard part is finished. Still, you must follow good culture practices to assure successful crops.
Weeds must be controlled. This can be done mechanically with a hoe, cultivator, or rotary tiller. To avoid damaging the asparagus roots, don’t till deeper than 2 in. Weed-blocking fabric and mulch will also help. Many gardeners use coarse salt to keep the weeds out. Asparagus tolerates salt, while most other plants don’t.
| Related articles: • Quick and Light, Asparagus Hits the Spot • Using Asparagus in Season and Beyond Asparagus recipes: • Fresh Asparagus Soup • Pickled Asparagus • Stir-Fried Shrimp and Asparagus |
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Except under almost desert conditions, asparagus, with its extensive root system, doesn’t need irrigation. I’ve learned that asparagus drowns much more quickly than it dies of thirst.
Asparagus does, however, need to be protected from pests. The asparagus beetle can nibble on spears and lay dark eggs along the surface. Unless a great amount of asparagus is grown in your area, this is mostly just a nuisance. Scrape off the eggs with your fingernail.
Fungal diseases like asparagus rust, which first appears as small reddish-brown spots on stems, can be treated with fungicides. The new hybrid varieties, however, resist disease.
A royal harvest worth the wait
It takes time to grow accustomed to the asparagus harvest cycle. Although the harvest is about six weeks long, it’s over just as many people start thinking about local summer produce. The asparagus harvest in Kansas usually starts about the middle of April and runs until the first of June. Spear growth depends on temperature. If it’s cool, the asparagus may need to be harvested every three days; if hot, every day.
Older varieties had to grow for three seasons before they could be harvested. With the increased vigor of the new hybrid varieties, gardeners can harvest for about two weeks during the first season, a year after planting. A light harvest seems to stimulate the plant to produce more spears. A full six-week harvest season may follow in year two, provided the average size of the spears is larger than a pencil.
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Comments (6)
First, I determined that my soil was not right. This was a raised bed that existed when my wife and I bought our house (along with two other larger raised beds). I read how asparagus likes loose somewhat sandy soil with lots of compost so I decided to dig up what was there and create the environment I needed. I did that this weekend. What I found was, that there were just three or four inches of top soil and then clay! Solid clay. No wonder my asparagus wouldn't grow. I'd like to get some feed back from anyone who has experience as to my "perscription" for the soil. Here goes:
Removed the existing topsoil and saved it.
Dug down and removed the clay to a depth of about 18". (In one spot, I used a long-nosed spade and a post-hole digger to see how much farther the clay went down - I was able to dig down another 10 inces or so and still solid clay!)
My six by four foot bed now looked like a big bath tub with clay sides and bottom.
Put the old topsoil back in the hole first after removing the surviving asparagus crowns (about nine of them). Interesting thing about that topsoil - it was full of little bitty roots of all varieties (probably mostly weeds) - but zero, and I mean ZERO roots in the clay!
Mixed with the old topsoil, in the bottom of the hole, three 50 pound bags of gravel for drainage.
Layered fresh garden soil (in bags made for flowers and veggies) two cubic feet with 25 pounds aged manure and 50 pounds sand, well mixed together - two layers.
That brought me within six inches of the top of the raised bed. Laid in my surviving crowns and some new crowns and watered in.
Then covered with more top soil and some more sand. I did not want to add more manure because I was afraid of burning the plants with direct contact.
So, what does anyone think my chances are?! I think they are pretty good. The reason I was struck by the hardiness of asparagus is that it did ANYTHING at all in that clay soil with so little topsoil. One crown was big enough to divide. After digging them, I dunked in a bucket of water to remove all weeds and mud (a great tip from one site) and found that some of the soil up underneath the crown was clay! Again, if these could survive in these conditions they should love their new home. The new crowns I planted were Jersey Giant. I still have room for about eight more plants so would appreciate any feedback on that as well.
Posted: 5:59 pm on April 7th
Posted: 4:25 am on February 23rd
We grow asparagus just for us to either eat raw or if it lasts long enough cooked. I dont think it grows wild in NZ My husband was more interested in the car your father had but he does do most of the vege gardening. We are not organic but dont use sprays or artificial fertilizers
wildgarden
Posted: 9:57 pm on October 14th
Posted: 11:52 am on April 5th
Posted: 12:01 pm on March 16th
Even though the asparagus took up a lot of space in the garden last year and I didn't get to eat anything, the fern-like fronds were beautiful--especially when red berries emerged late in the season. The unique-looking plants drew many comments and questions from fellow gardeners in my community garden.
Posted: 8:41 am on March 16th