Build Your Own Raised Beds
comments (15) February 24th, 2009Accessorizing your raised beds
Beds can be custom designed and accessorized. For some clients, I have designed beds that have a 6-in. board or “cap” around the edge to make sitting more comfortable. (This does make it just a bit more difficult to turn the soil, though.) Others have corner posts extended up to 8 ft. to allow attachment of trellises for beans, cucumbers, and other climbers. In gopher-prone areas, beds have hardware cloth tacked across the bottom.
For some beds, I have devised a system of hoops, using PVC irrigation pipe, over which to drape bird netting or row cover to keep cabbage loopers out. Brick or stone raised beds can be used to retain small slopes. Other beds divide gardens into “rooms,” sometimes quite formal in design.
I have experimented with several irrigation products, including micro-emitters, “leaky” pipe, soaker hoses, and drip pipe. I prefer the very flexible soaker hoses available in most hardware and garden stores. They can be snaked in any configuration and are easily removed when it’s time to turn the soil. I use inexpensive chopsticks to keep the hose in place.
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| Netting draped over the beds keeps birds from helping themselves. | Whimsical but useful, chopsticks hold the soaker hose in place. A hose bib allows controlled watering. | |
It has been 20 years since we built the beds, and we are beginning to see signs of wear that indicate we need to begin rebuilding. Certainly, they have been a good value, having held up to blasting sun and year-round cultivation. Where there was once only concrete, the soil is now black and rich and teeming with earthworms. The eight beds make crop rotation easy to track. Everything I’ve grown in the garden has thrived.
Over the years, we have slowly removed the concrete paving between the boxes and replaced it with a thick layer of pea gravel that allows the little rain we get to percolate into the ground. And it crunches delightfully underfoot. Because the vegetable garden is the primary view from our kitchen, it has been an added pleasure to look out on the raised beds with their profusion of vegetables, herbs, and edible flowers spilling over the edges. Thanks to the raised beds, we can enjoy home-grown produce every month of the year.
| Build the bed: plan, instructions, materials, and accessories | |
| To make the corner posts, measure and cut the 8-ft. 4x4 into four 24-in. lengths. To make the long sides of the bed, nail three 8-ft. 2x6s one at a time to two corner posts; you will have boards stacked three high. The bottom board should be flush with the bottom of the post while the top board should end approximately 7-1⁄2 in. short of the top of the post, as shown in the drawing below. Repeat this step to form the second long side. Cut the remaining three 2x6s in half so you have six 4-ft. 2x6s for the ends. Stand the two lengths with posts up, parallel to each other, approximately 4 ft. apart. Nail the 2x6 end pieces to the corner posts, three to each end. They should be aligned flush with the posts. The raised bed form is complete. At this point, if you’re worried about gophers, moles, or voles, you can staple a 4-ft. by 8-ft. piece of 1⁄2-in. hardware cloth across the bottom of the box. This allows drainage and root growth but keeps the critters out. Resist the temptation to sink the 4x4s into the ground; it’s really not necessary because the soil makes the boxes very stable. Also, buried 4x4s will rot faster. |
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| Click here or on the drawing to enlarge it. | |
| Materials list (per bed) • One 8-ft. 4x4 redwood post for corners • Nine 8-ft. 2x6 redwood boards for sides and ends • One 1-lb. box of 16d (3-1⁄2 in.) galvanized nails • 1⁄2-in. hardware cloth, 4 ft. by 8 ft. |
Optional accessories • Soaker hose and hose bib • Support hoops • Row cover fabric • Clothespins • Chopsticks • Cloches |
Learn more about designing and building raised beds...
by Linda Chisari
April 1997
from issue #8
posted in: raised beds, structures























Comments (15)
I think I will have to add about 6 more bags once the dirt settles some.
Posted: 3:57 pm on March 30th
Posted: 5:16 pm on January 24th
Posted: 12:38 pm on January 1st
Most do not address challenges and the minutia that are usually lessons hard learned.
Unfortunately I found this article just a little bit too late in my project to address some future challenges - that have been addressed so well within this article; there are several things I would have done differently 3 days ago ;)
My project involves the design & installation of two 4X12 raised beds over hard clay / builders backfill. The client specified 12" deep beds, but I suggested at least 18" (given what they wanted to plant) given the nature of their native soil.
I found a really cool 4'X4'X1" X9" high finger joint cedar 'kit' complete with 4X4 trellis (Suncaster - http://www.suncast.com/productdisplay.aspx?id=647&pid=138) on sale for $30 (from $79). Having explored various other construction material options, from both a labour & cost perspective (with serious emphasis on bed depth), I chose to buy 8 of these kits to create two 4X12X1" (thick) X 18" deep beds. None of the 2X, or commercial 1X or 5/4X could compete with the price to create a similarly deep bed.
I had to install cross bracing to prevent the 12' long sides from mis-behaving at the 4' joint points, vertical posts to tie the 2 levels together and lend greater stability to the 1" thick walled beds, and install narrow strips of land-scape fabric to prevent the soil from seeping out between the lower and upper courses and at the finger joints (my aluminum 1/8" thick X 1" wide X bed width cross bracing increased the inter-level gappage to 1/8" at the aluminum pin down points holding the finger jointed 4X4X9" boards + brace together.
I would have handled many things differently had I come across your article 3 days ago ;)
Lucky for me, having found your article before the end of the project, I will consider installing landscape fabric differently for the perimeter paths, exterior seating vs. capping the bed tops with seating boards (given that they will interfere with turning the beds - never thought of that), and flexible / easily removable options for irrigation system.
You guys are great - thanks for sharing your hard found knowledge.
Posted: 8:49 pm on October 14th
The raised beds above hold 1.18 yards (32 cubic feet) of dirt if you leave a 3 inch gap at the top of the boards.
How to calculate your dirt needs:
For this box:
Depth x Length x Width
1 ft x 8 ft x 4 ft = 32
Conversion to Yards = Cubic feet / 27 (1.185 as shown above)
For slightly more comlicated depths or sizes, the pattern still works, but everything needs to be converted to the decimal version of measurement:
18" of soil = (18/12)feet = 1.33 feet deep
5'7" long = 67" = (67/12)feet = 5.58 feet long
2'4" wide = 28" = (28/12)feet = 2.33 feet wide
1.33 x 5.58 x 2.33 = 17.29 cubic feet
17.29 / 27 = 0.64 cubic yards
Hope this helps.
And remember, most businesses sell soil or compost by the half yard, so in both of the cases above, you might want to buy topsoil and then supplement it with a few bags of peat, compost, or manure to add nutrients.
Posted: 2:32 pm on April 30th
Id sure love to see how you used the bricks as Ive just been offered a truckload of used bricks if I want them.
justachick
Posted: 6:23 pm on March 1st
Posted: 11:04 pm on February 29th
Posted: 1:15 pm on February 29th
Posted: 10:34 am on September 3rd
Posted: 2:48 pm on February 14th
Posted: 8:45 am on January 19th
Thank you!
Posted: 9:41 pm on January 18th
Posted: 4:53 am on May 5th
http://www.finegardening.com/design/articles/pressure-treated-wood-in-beds.aspx
Posted: 9:49 am on April 27th
If you read the research on Ever Guard and similar micronized copper products, it seems that although some preservative leaches out over a long period it is sequestered by the soils and not taken in to plants.
It is probably no worse than water from some municipal supplies, or copper plumbing.
Posted: 9:23 am on April 27th