Build an A-Frame Tomato Trellis
March 15th, 2009
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73 users recommend
Michael Gellatly
Slow and steady drilling will keep the bit from wandering.
Boyd Hagen
Placing some of the screws off-center lessens the liklihood that the top cross bar might split.
Boyd Hagen
Lettering the trellis parts makes for easier setup; setting the A-frame 8 in. into the ground makes for a sturdy trellis.
Janet Jemmott
by Peter Coe
July 1997
from issue #9
I designed this A-frame trellis to be a freestanding, stable structure that could be taken apart and stored over the winter. If treated with a wood preservative and stored in a dry place, the trellis will last 5 to 10 years. I grow five tomato plants on each 10-ft. long trellis. With any luck, and good weather, the plants will reach the top bar by August.
Download the trellis project plan (pdf).
Helpful hints
1. Don't forget to cut and place those right-angle blocks. They provide structural stability that keeps the trellis from racking.
2. Drill pilot holes in the braces of the A-frame; put the screws in later.
If you want to use wood preservative, do so before assembly. If you don't want to treat the wood, you can use redwood, ceddar, white oak, or locust, all woods that'll take the elements for some time.
4. Steel pins are durable and strong, but if you don't want to cut steel rod, use 1/4-in. wooden dowels. Bevel the edges so the dowel will fit in with a few taps of a hammer.
5. It's easiest to assemble the A-frames on a flat surface. Then, when you're ready to put the whole trellis together, have someone hold up the A-frames while you line up the holse in the ends of the trellis bars with the pins.
Materials
• 1 8-ft. 2x4
• 1 10-ft. 2x4
• 2 12-ft. 2x3s
• 1 10-ft. 2x3
• 3/8-in steel rod (sold in 36-in. lengths), or 1/4-in. wooden dowels about 1 ft. long.
• 26 2-1/2-in. galvanized drywall screws, about 1/4 lb.
• 2 4-in. galvanized drywall screws
• Nylon mason's twine or durable string.
Tools
• Tablesaw with a miter gauge, a compound miter saw, or a protractor and handsaw
• Drill with 3/16-in. and 3/8-in. drill bits
• Phillips screwdriver
• Hacksaw and file, if using steel rod
Learn more about the advangages of trellising tomatoes...
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posted in:
tomatoes, Projects, trellis
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Comments (8)
Posted: 12:50 am on October 10th
Posted: 10:18 pm on June 2nd
"first, I canted the ends in a bit, by making the top chord shorter than the bottom. This gave me better stability, I think, and less likelihood to sway to either end" ?
I like the lattice part and will hang some on both ends.
Posted: 10:51 am on June 2nd
Posted: 9:43 am on July 7th
Posted: 9:39 am on April 6th
Posted: 9:06 pm on April 3rd
I'll let you know how it works out. Thanks for the idea. Passersby sure seem to like it.
Pete
Boston, MA
Posted: 2:20 am on July 2nd
Posted: 5:38 pm on March 20th
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